Moscow Diaries: Notes on the City's Nightlife

Bars and restaurants are absolutely jam-packed even on weekdays.

I am honestly at that age where I value a good night’s sleep over a night out in the town. There are fewer greater joys than waking up early in the morning fresh and energetic. But since my friends have crazy working schedules, I have had to meet them in the evenings and my dream of getting to bed by 10 pm has just been that- a dream.

One evening I caught up with colleagues who I have been working with for almost three years. This get-together was at an Irish-style pub chain that has sprouted all across Russia and even in places like Almaty. By the time I got to the pub, it was absolutely full, and the dominant language spoken was English.

This was an expat world for the expats. The staff could speak a bit of English and most patrons knew enough Russian to be understood. I was told that this was a happy watering hole for the English-speakers of Moscow. Expat gossip, visas, new immigration rules and opportunities were among the key topics I could gather off hand. These people from countries hostile to Russia seemed happy to live in Moscow and were keen to continue doing so.

I have generally avoided meeting expats in Russia as integrating into the culture and society has been a top priority for me. This evening, though, was interesting for me as I got to see how in an era of uncertainty the foreigners in Moscow were trying to make the most out of life.

I was told that the bar was known for the occasional drunken brawls but the staff knew to manage. They were used to good tips and the service was top class to say the least.

The next night I met Muscovite friends for dinner at a Soviet-style self-service restaurant, with the decor to match and 1970s and 80s music. I was the only foreigner in the place and felt right at home with the ambience. The patrons were from all age groups and my host told me he loved the place since he felt like he was back in his college days.

Having spent the best part of four years in the Russian Far East, I felt a similar sense of nostalgia in that restaurant with my Russian friends. Well past midnight on a Thursday, the place was full. Of course, everyone had to work the next day, but I could really sense the Russian ‘make hay while the sun shines’ mindset that night.

Moscow has its own parallel worlds. One of Western expats, one of well-rooted Muscovites, one of Russians who have moved to the city to make it big and become accepted as Muscovites, one of the various diasporas from the former Soviet Union and even countries like China and India. This is a city that seems to have room for all sorts of people and is embracing a degree of diversity.

Of course I have plenty of friends here who are raising children and make sure the lights are out at home early. They don’t have the need to drink till odd hours of the night. They seem to be a lot happier than those who need to get this kind of entertainment a few days a week.